Besides being the political centre of China, Beijing is also the country’s cultural capital. The popular art district of 798 – also known as Dashanzi is where artists and gallerists congregate, alongside browsers, hangers-on, tourists, and the like.
The area has evolved considerably from when it was first established officially in 2004. It first came about when a handful of artists moved there in search of affordable space to work in the early 2000s, and the cluster of disused military factories soon drew gallerists and more artists, publishers, design companies and then other businesses like cafés and retail shops. International fame followed and the number of visitors swelled. Today the site continues to bustle with a large number of exhibitions and activities, and swarms of visitors.
Its fame has helped to deflect plans to demolish the buildings which were built more than 50 years ago. The Bauhaus-influenced architecture of the district – which the Germans were chiefly responsible for - translates to lofty ceilings and large windows letting in ample light and stunning spaces. In some buildings – such as the original Number 798 Factory, communist slogans in red remain on the walls, exhorting the masses to work hard. The factory building now houses the 798 Space and the Beijing Tokyo Art Projects, the area’s first art galleries which opened back in 2002 and remains popular.
One stalwart of the 798 Art District is Timezone 8 Art Books – a regular host of launches and other activities as well as the first foreign-run establishment in the zone. It now also has an offshoot in the form of a bar. One of the most respected galleries here is the Ullens Centre for Contemporary Art (UCCA), which opened in 2007, just as the area was being given a grand facelift.
The area, as it appears today, is quite different from when artists first discovered the sprawling affordable spaces. It has even become a popular venue for fashion launches and corporate events, and any traces of the bohemian spirit are now framed and on sale. A slew of cafés and restaurants have almost overtaken galleries in numbers - they make the area a good place to spend lazy weekend afternoons – which is also when the area is most crowded and the atmosphere is almost festive. The struggling artists can no longer afford rents here, but with all the things and people to see, even if you have only a passing interest in art, it is still well worth a visit.
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