Hanging out in Datong(296 views)

Release date:2010-08-11 11:18:41

65 km south-east of Datong, in the north of Shanxi province in northern China, is the spectacular Hanging Temple or Hanging Monastery (Xuánkong Sì). The temple is situated near Heng Shan Mountain, one of the five sacred Taoist mountains in the country. What makes this temple special is that it was constructed about 50 to 70m above the valley floor of Jingxia Gorge, clinging precariously to the western cliff face.

Construction was begun by the monk Liao Ran in 491 AD during the Northern Wei dynasty, This valley was often traversed by pilgrims and was the perfect stopping off point to build a temple but for the occasionally wild elements: The river in the valley would often flood while the top of the mountain was exposed to wind and rain, so the side of the cliff, with the protective mountain wall behind the temple, was the best spot to build.

The resulting temple clings to the rock like a swallow’s nest and seems to defy gravity. The temple is not as substantially supported by the slender wooden poles beneath it as it seems to be: these were added later and many think that the posts were added to quell people’s fears about walking on balconies that seemed to float in the air. Rather most of the temple’s weight is supported by cantilevers – deep horizontal holes drilled into the rock which hold the strong wooden beams that support the temple structures.

Another thing that makes this temple special is its integration of Buddhist, Taoist, and Confucian elements. Among the temple’s many rooms there is, for instance, the Hall of the Three Religions. This room contains statues of the founders of Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism all together in the one place in a rare spectacle of tolerance and understanding. Throughout the years the statues in the temple have fallen prey to thieves and many of the statues have had their eyes – which perhaps held once held jewels - chiseled out. The effect is somewhat disturbing but some of the eyes have been replaced with black stones. Another room called Chunyang Palace contains a bed with woven matting on top and a hollow cut into the stone beneath where a fire could be lit on cold winter nights.

Moving from room to room is not for the faint hearted. A maze of wooden bridges and passageways links the rooms by a high and narrow path. If you are not afraid of heights and the site is not too busy, you can look out over the gorge below and admire the view of the dusty brown rocks that make up this rugged region. In front of the monastery is the river, which no longer floods thanks to a modern dam, but does freeze in cold weather, forming a beautiful frozen waterfall.

The temple can become very busy during the summer. You might have to wait in line for quite a while because only a set number of people are allowed inside at any one time for reasons of safety. Additionally, the path through the complex is one way and signposted to ensure a smooth flow of visitors through this precarious and precious site. If you can stand the freezing weather, it might be worthwhile to visit in winter when the site can be virtually deserted.

There are a number of ways to get to the Hanging Monastery from Datong. Travel Agency runs tours to the monastery and the Yungang Caves but it is also possible to get to these sites independently using local public transport and taxis. Rather than paying for a taxi all the way to the monastery, try getting a bus to Hunyuan and then taking a taxi from there. Entry to the monastery should be about 35 yuan.

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