Brief information on Putuoshan  

Putuoshan is one of the 1,000 islands of the Zhoushan Archipelago in the East China Sea, and is a popular destination within easy reach from major cities such as Shanghai and Ningbo. The golden fine sand beaches and lush greenery are as much a draw as the temples that dot the island.

As one of the four holy Buddhist mountains in China, it draws tourists and pilgrims alike. Devotees come to Putuoshan for Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy. While summer is the best season for fans of beaches and sun worshippers, it can get pretty crowded on the island, transforming a Buddhist holy ground into a theme park. Between the tour groups and crowds thronging the designated scenic areas, the piped-in music and chants, and hawkers of Buddhism paraphernalia, Nirvana couldn’t be further.

All this means that off-season might actually be more conducive for peaceful strolls and contemplation. Against the backdrop of the calm, accommodation prices are lower, and the island’s charms stand out even more.

For Buddhist pilgrims, the main draw of Putuoshan is the Boddhisattva Guanyin. Legend has it that a Japanese monk was travelling with a statue of the Boddhisattva when a storm wrecked his ship and he found himself stranded on the island. Guanyin appeared to him in a vision and promised him a safe return to home in exchange for the statue to be left behind on the island – so it came to that Guanyin was enshrined on the island in AD916.

Today, a giant statue of Guanyin looks out to the sea at the southernmost tip of the island. Built in 1997, the 33-metre statue is made of bronze and gold. It depicts Guanyin holding a ship wheel, signifying her watching over sea farers and fishermen. Guanyin literally means “observing the sounds” in Chinese, she is one of the most revered figures in Chinese Buddhism, known for her compassion as well as her supposed powers to grant male children.

Besides the must-see Guanyin statue, the three biggest temples on the island are Puji Temple, Fayu Temple, and Huiji Temple. Puji Temple, a main area of worship, houses a nine-metre tall bronze statue of Guanyin. Charming cobblestone streets lead to Haiyin Pool right in front of the temple. This is where the faithful set turtles free as a gesture to gain merit.

The temple grounds also feature a number of smaller pagodas and shrines around the main building, as well as stalls selling prayer beads, statues, and other Buddhist paraphernalia. There are also a number of stores hawking seafood, a specialty of the island.

Located two kilometres away north of Puji Temple is Fayu Temple, the second largest temple on the island. Beginning from a stone gateway, it is set into six ascending levels up a hill. Huji Temple, built in the Ming dynasty, is about a kilometre north of Fayu Temple, on the peak of Foding Hill.

To get to Foding Hill, which at 300 metres above sea level is the highest peak on the island, visitors can hop into the cable car and enjoy the views. For those who prefer to walk, they might – in addition to charming small shrines along the way – come across the pilgrims prostrating themselves on each of the 1,000 steps to reach the top.

In addition to shrine and pagodas, various rock stars dot the island. They do not sing, dance, or play instruments. Rather, they are real rocks which for some reason, draw crowds of tourists wanting to be photographed on or with them. The rocks are identifiable by special markings and the crowds that surround them. One of these, located about 500 metres west of Puji Temple, features an engraving of the Chinese character for heart.  

Near the oversized Guanyin statue, legend surrounds Chao Yin Dong, the Cave of Tidal Sounds. Guanyin is said to have appeared to visitors through the ages. These visions eventually led to a cult of suicide af

*You can download the bilingual note to show it to a taxi driver or someone else to find your way to Putuoshan if you plan to visit Putuoshan and have language problems.

   

Where to eat & drink
Seafood is an island specialty. Simple seafood prepared Chinese style – complete with bones and shells – can be had at any one of the numerous small restaurants on the island. Clusters of restaurants can be found near the harbour along the road at Xishan new village (near the naval base) or Longwan village (near Golden Sand Beach). The buildings housing the restaurants are ugly toilet-tiled affairs, and the food is served up on roughshod outdoor tables, but the fresh ingredients – seafood and seasonal vegetables - make a delicious meal.

Near Puji Temple, the Putuoshan Teahouse (6 Xianghua Jie, 0580 6091208) serves up traditional vegetarian Buddhist options as well as Shanghainese cuisine.

Where to stay
Prices vary greatly according to the season. There are currently two Chinese  four-star hotels on the island: the Putuoshan Hotel (93 Meicen Lu, 0580 6092828, doubles from RMB430-1,219) and Xilei Xiao Zhuang (1 Xianghua Jie, 0580 6091505, from RMB 430). Both hotels are very near Puji Temple and the Hundred Steps Beach. For something with more character, Xilin Hotel (next to Xilei Xiao Zhuang, 0580 6091119, doubles from RMB 260) is converted from a small monastery. Hotel touts at the harbour hawk double rooms from RMB 200 in two-star establishments; bargaining is expected. Many restaurant operators also offer accommodation, but the condition of the rooms and legality of their offers are uncertain. It is advisable to book ahead during peak season, but at other times the hotels are mostly empty.

Getting around
Putuoshan is only 12 square kilometres, making exploration by foot easy and pleasant. Air conditioned minibuses that pick up and drop passengers at all the attractions. Fares range from RMB 2-10.  The cable car to Foding Hill costs RMB 40 return and RMB 25 one-way.

Getting there
By air
Flights from Shanghai’s Hongqiao Airport to Putuoshan Airport (which is actually on the nearby Zhujiajian Island) are operated by China Eastern Airlines (021 6247 5953, www.ce-air.com). From the airport, take a taxi to Wugongzhi Dock before zipping across the sea on a five-minute speedboat trip to Putuoshan.

By sea
Slow ferries leave from Wusong Dock (timetables 021 5657 5500, 251 Songbao Lu), situated where the Huangpu River flows into the sea. (The easiest way to get to the dock is by taxi but you can also take bus Nos.51, 116, 522 or 728.) The slow ferries leave Shanghai at 8pm daily and arrive in Putuoshan at 7.30am the next morning; they return from Putuoshan at 4.30pm daily and arrive in Shanghai at 6am the next morning. One-way tickets are RMB 97-460, depending on the class of travel.

Fast ferries leave from Luchaogang Dock (timetables 021 5828 2201) in the Nanhui disctrict (to the south of Shanghai). A bus service runs to the dock (8am, 2pm daily) from 1588 Waima Lu (near Nanpu Bridge, just out of central Shanghai). The ferry crossing takes four to four-and-a-half hours. Tickets are RMB 225/195 (first class/second class). The price includes both the bus and the ferry part of the journey. There is a return ferry from Putoshan at 4.30pm daily.

Both fast and slow ferry tickets are available from 59 Jinling Donglu (021 6328 3129). Go in person to buy the tickets, preferably a few days in advance.

Bus tickets to Shenjiamen Dock in Zhoushan are also available at the Shanghai Stadium at RMB 138. From Shenjiamen Dock, a 15-minute ferry ride costing RMB 19.5 to Putuoshan leaves every 10 minutes from 6.30am to 5.30pm. For the return leg, bus tickets from Shenjiamen to Shanghai can be bought from ticket offices at the Putuoshan harbour.

Tourist Information
Entrance to Putuoshan Island is currently RMB 115 (