Hangzhou(286 views)

Release date:2012-01-29 23:32:05

Since ancient times, Hangzhou has been renowned as one of the most beautiful places in China, a paradise on earth. Today, it remains one of those cities whose beauty strikes even the jaded hearts of repeated visitors.

The West Lake, its most famous site, offers different scenery at different times of the day, in different weather and different seasons - each no less moving than the others. The classic way to enjoy it is to get on a boat and drift through the calm waters to destinations such as the Three Pools Mirroring the Moon. This is where you will see the scenery featured on the back of the current one yuan note as well as the famous lamp rising out of the water that has become a symbol of Hangzhou. The Fairy Islet, so named for its likeness to an imagined Utopia is also a part of the islet.

There are also private boats for up to six people for hire, but the official shuttles offers good value for money, with several routes and departure piers to chose from, covering all the key sights.

We hopped off at the Zhongshan Park pier and headed to lunch at Lou Wai Lou – one of the best-known restaurants in Hangzhou that offered sweeping lake views from the picture windows of the second level. Local specialties such as Sweet and Sour Fish, Beggar’s Chicken, and Dongbo Rou (fatty pork drenched in brown sauce which melts in the mouth) can all be found here. After a good feed of refined Hangzhou cuisine follows another walk by the lake, where we chance upon a charming café on the verdant grounds of the Gushan (Lonely Hill) Park.

When daylight runs out, there is still plenty to see and do in Hangzhou. Along the banks Hubin Lu, near the Hyatt Regency Hotel, a musical fountain performance runs 10 minutes performances a few times a night. The swirling jets of water and changing bright lights enthralls both locals taking evening walks as well as tourists. While there are also daytime performances, the colorful dashes of light at night amply the effects of the synchronized movements.

Restaurants and bars along Nanshan Lu provide a good spot for enjoying a meal or a drink while people-watching. And the glitzy malls of on Hubin Lu with big international brands such as Cartier, Tiffany, and others provides a glamorous distraction.

But we found the night markets and snack streets more interesting. The area around the Drum Tower, by the ancient city wall – around Hefang Jie - is turned into a pedestrian-only area in the evenings. There were traditional Hangzhou snacks as well as oddities like grilled insects from the Southwest of China, and novelties like imported red bean pancake imported. The historical area is also home to a unique mélange of Chinese and Western architectural styles created in the early 20th century, as well as some ancient brands such as the Hangzhou restaurant Zhuang Yuan Guan.

Away from the main lake area, about a 15-20 minutes car ride away is the Lingyin Si Scenic Area, located in the Wulin Mountain in the northwest of the city. The most famous temple here is the eponymous Lingyin Si, also known as the Yunlin (Forest in the Clouds) Zen Shrine. It is located just opposite the Feilai Peak, noted for its caves and ancient reliefs of Buddhist images dating back to the Song Dynasty.

Lingyin Si itself was first established in AD328. It has been rebuilt and renovated over the years but today remains one of the best known temples of its kind in the region, but its fame means that there are crowds, and the atmosphere can hardly be described as calm. We made our rounds and hastily retreated in search of serenity.

We didn’t have to go far. Past the ancient village of Fayun, which is now the site of the luxury Aman Fayun resort and closed to the casual curiosity of passers-by, we continue to Yongfu Si. The path is well-renovated, well maintained, and reminiscent of the grounds of shrines in Kyoto, that model of Zen calm. Leaves explode into shades of red, yellow, and green while a stream gurgles unhurriedly through the landscape.

At the end of our Hangzhou trip, we promised ourselves we’ll be back to take the Grand Canal tour, or float around Xixi Wetlands.

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