Qingdao(833 views)

Release date:2009-12-16 09:48:56

I did not mind the noise outside the hotel window. The impressive view of construction at Qingdao’s train station made up for the clamor. Welder’s sparks showered down from the iron canopy, machinery groaned and workers shouted orders through the night.

I visited Qingdao in May 2008, just as the city was completing preparations for hosting the sailing events of the Beijing Olympics. Although St. Michael’s Catholic Church was closed and the sidewalk outside my hotel was being reduced to rubble, Qingdao still came as advertised: it was a laid-back place to spend a few days enjoying shaded streets and sandy beaches.

While Qingdao’s No. 1 Beach is one of the nicer beaches in northern China, the weekend crowds can make it far from relaxing. During my visit on a cool weekday, elderly men seemed to be getting the most enjoyment out of the beach: one was jogging in a Speedo while others lay sprawled face down on the sand. Touts sold tickets for parasails and paddle bicycles, while a few families timidly approached the water. I preferred walking in nearby Lu Xun Park, where paths and pavilions overlooked Huiquan Bay.

Not far from No. 1 Beach, the Badaguan area offers great views of Qingdao’s century-old architecture. While some cities overstate the charm of their buildings, Qingdao delivers in Badaguan. My coworker and I wandered the tree-lined streets from No. 1 Beach to the Protestant Church, an active place of worship well worth visiting. The ticket agent, a chatty middle-aged woman, made sure we knew we were allowed to climb the tower, which housed the church’s antique clock and bell mechanisms.

Even though St. Michael’s was closed, we took time to visit the streets surrounding it. The old buildings were slightly shabbier than the ones in Badaguan, a fact that made the area more enticing to explore. Following my guidebook’s advice, I searched for the faded slogan “毛主席万岁” (Long Live Chairman Mao) painted above a doorway. I found it half obscured by an air conditioning unit.

Not far away on the waterfront, Zhan Qiao Pier (sometimes called “Zhan Bridge”) was alive with people. With Huilan Pavilion at its end, the pier affords panoramic views of the bay, but I spent my time looking downward at the items on vendor’s blankets. Starfish, seashells, live sea creatures and gimmicky toys all drew crowds of elderly tourists in matching red caps.

The crab kebabs for sale along the waterfront may not be the best introduction to Qingdao’s cuisine. My four tiny orange crabs tasted like a tide pool. I had better luck with a seafood restaurant along Zhongyuan Meishi Jie, which served stir fried razor clams and squid. They also offered a special draft beer with a peculiarly familiar taste. After a pitcher or two, I realized what it was: Tsingtao spiked with baijiu, the popular Chinese distilled liquor.

After leaving Qingdao, I followed the city’s final preparations for the Olympics. The train station -- a fusion of traditional German architecture and contemporary Chinese engineering -- was completed in late July. The city fought an algae bloom that threatened the sailing events. No. 1 Bathing Beach was expanded to accommodate 200,000 visitors a day.

Despite the masses or the pace of construction, Qingdao retains its charms in Badaguan and along the waterfront. The city remains an attractive place to spend the better part of a week.

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